A recent cross-Canada road trip (Toronto to Vancouver) was a once-in-a-lifetime bucket list trip for me. My husband and I spent 12 days driving across Ontario, Manitoba, Saskatchewan, Alberta and British Columbia and exploring as much of our beautiful country as we could in the time we had.
We have road-tripped to Atlantic Canada from Toronto in the past so have now crossed the country from one coast to the other. It was also my first time in Saskatchewan so I now have visited all 10 provinces (next up – the territories!).
We opted to rent a car (a Nissan Kicks subcompact SUV) and drive one way to Vancouver and fly home after. We rented from Enterprise where we got the best rate.
After the first half day of driving from Toronto to Sudbury, much of our route was on the Trans-Canada Highway until we crossed into Alberta. We then detoured off of it to visit the Badlands as well as Banff and Jasper National Parks and then back on it for a segment of the trip as we travelled south to Vancouver.
Fun Fact: The Trans-Canada Highway, officially opened in 1962, runs from ocean to ocean – St. John’s, Newfoundland to Victoria, British Columbia – a distance of 7,820 kilometres (4,860 miles).
We drove more than 5,100 kilometres (3,100 miles) across five provinces and through all sorts of weather including a mid-30s Celsius heatwave, wind/rain/flood warnings and snow in the mountains. According to my Fitbit, we also walked 175,839 steps (including a day in Vancouver with 31,600!) – so we covered a lot of ground!
We dropped off our rental car on day 12 of our trip and then spent three nights enjoying a weekend getaway in Vancouver.
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Day 1: Greater Toronto Area to Sault Ste Marie
Approximate Distance: 705 kilometres (438 miles)
This initial stretch of the trip is one that we know well as we travel often to our cottage on Manitoulin Island and to visit family in Sudbury and on the north shore of Lake Huron where I grew up.
Read 15 of the Things To Do on Manitoulin Island
Our first rest stop was in Parry Sound (approximately 250 km from our home). We always stop either at the rest station at Seguin Trail (Exit 214) which has a gas station with convenience store as well as a Tim Hortons or at Starbucks located at 294 Louisa Street (Exit 224 Bowes Street).
The Big Nickel
Distance from Toronto to Sudbury is approximately 409 km (254 miles).
We also opted for a quick stop in Sudbury at the Big Nickel because we haven’t been in years and it seemed like a road side attraction that one should stop at on a cross-Canada road trip.
One of Canada’s iconic roadside attractions, The Big Nickel is a 13 ton, 30 foot high replica of a 1951 Canadian nickel which sits on the grounds of the Dynamic Earth science centre in Sudbury. It was constructed in 1964 in anticipation of the 1967 Canadian Centennial celebration and is intended to symbolize the contribution that Sudbury’s nickel production has made to the Canadian economy.
Dynamic Earth is a hands-on science centre featuring two underground tours, multimedia theatre and exhibits as well as an outdoor science park. It’s worth a visit if you have time – unfortunately, we did not on this particular trip.
Located at 122 Big Nickel Road, Sudbury.
The Big Loonie Echo Bay
We stopped to visit my mother on the north shore of Lake Huron and popped into the local Tim Hortons to have a sandwich before heading out on the last leg to the Soo with one stop in Echo Bay to see the Big Loonie which neither of us had seen before.
Located just off the Trans-Canada Highway in Echo Bay east of the Soo, the Big Loonie monument was erected in 1992 in honour of local artist Robert Ralph Carmichael who designed the loon featured on Canada’s one dollar “Loonie” coin.
Located on Highway 17B approximately 26 kilometres (16 miles) east of Sault Ste. Marie.
Sault Ste. Marie
We stayed one night at the Fairfield by Marriott Inn & Suites Sault Ste. Marie in a standard room with a king bed paid for with Marriott Bonvoy points and just spent the evening relaxing in our room so we would be fresh and ready for an early start the next morning.
The Fairfield by Marriott Inn & Suites Sault Ste. Marie is located at 633 Great Northern Road and provides comfortable rooms at great value with friendly service. There are a variety of rooms and suites to choose from, complimentary on-site parking and breakfast, an indoor pool and exercise room and free high-speed internet access. Check current rates and reviews on Booking.com or Expedia.
Day 2: Sault Ste. Marie to Thunder Bay
Approximate Distance: 700 kilometres (435 miles)
Our second day was another long day of travel as we enjoyed the stunning scenery along the Canadian portion of the Lake Superior Circle Tour drive. The Lake Superior Circle tour is a 2,092km (1,300 mile) self guided tour around the worlds largest fresh water lake through northern Ontario as well as three states – Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan.
One could easily spend several days enjoying this route but we fit in the attractions that we could on our one day drive from Sault Ste. Marie to Thunder Bay.
Chippewa Falls
Approximately 55km (34 miles) about a 45 minute drive north of Sault Ste. Marie.
Located on the side of Highway 17 you can see Chippewa Falls while driving by but it’s much better to stop and have a closer look. There’s an official historical sites plaque here stating that this is the halfway point of the Trans-Canada Highway as well as a display nothing that Algoma is also one of the areas which inspired the famous Group of Seven landscape painters – in particular, A.Y. Jackson who painted here on the Chippewa River.
There are picnic tables and restrooms here and a short hiking trail to get a better view of the falls. There’s currently some road construction here but it’s also still possible to take photos of the falls from the highway bridge which has a pedestrian sidewalk.
Voyageur’s Lodge, Batchewana Bay
Approximately 14 km (8.5 miles) or about a 10-15 minute drive from Chippewa Falls
I love an apple fritter so when I read that Voyageurs’ Lodge in Batchewana Bay was famous for their fritters, I knew we had to add it to our itinerary. My husband and I shared one which was still warm from the oven and it was delicious!
Agawa Bay Scenic Lookout
This is such a beautiful drive and there are quite a few spots to stop and admire the view along the way. Agawa Bay Scenic Lookout was one of my favourites and while we were stopped here I chatted with a man and his dog from the Netherlands who were travelling across Canada. We had noticed that he had Netherlands license plates and I was curious so stopped for a chat. They shipped the van here ahead of their arrival and were living in it as they explored Canada – such a cool experience!
The Wawa Goose
At the junction of Highway 17 and Highway 101 – approximately 157 km (97 miles) from Batchewana Bay
I remember visiting this monument once as a kid but that was a long time ago! Located at the Wawa Visitor Centre overlooking the Trans-Canada Highway, the Wawa Goose is a famous roadside attraction in Canada that was built in the 1960s to entice travellers into the town from the Trans-Canada. The current (3rd) version of this much photographed landmark was unveiled in 2017 and is 28 feet tall, 22 feet long with a wingspan of 20 feet and is made of stainless steel with a bronze coating to prevent rusting.
There’s also an airport across the road so you might see small planes landing or taking off.
Winnie-the-Pooh Memorial, White River
Approximately 90 km (55 miles) from Wawa
This memorial in White River celebrates the birthplace of Winnie-the-Pooh. More than a century ago, a man named Harry Colebourn was travelling across Canada en route to Europe to serve in World War I when he bought an orphaned bear cub from a trapper in White River. He named the cub Winnie for his hometown of Winnipeg and took her to England with him where she was housed at the London Zoo while he served in France. A.A. Milne and his son, Christopher, liked to visit the zoo to see Winnie which lead to the author’s creation of the beloved children’s storybook character, Winnie-the-Pooh.
The Winnie-the-Pooh Memorial statue is located in Winnie-the-Pooh Park just off the Trans-Canada Highway. There’s also a playground if you’re travelling with kids and need a break from the car and visitor information centre as well.
Marathon Scenic Viewpoint
We made a quick stop at one of the road-side scenic viewpoints near Marathon – the views are stunning and a photo can’t really do it justice!
Terrace Bay Lighthouse
Approximately 168 km (104 miles) from White River
Our next quick stop was in Terrace Bay to see the lighthouse which is a 50 foot replica of the one at Slate Islands Provincial Park. From May to October you can climb to the top of the lighthouse and enjoy the views of Lake Superior – which we did but probably shouldn’t have because it made me a bit dizzy! The lighthouse is located in a shopping plaza and we missed it on the way by and hand to turn around and backtrack – I had been expecting it to be by the water.
Nipigon Lookout Tower
Approximately 104 km (65 miles) from Terrace Bay
We drove around downtown Schreiber just for a quick look as I had remembered relatives living there when I was young and then drove on to the Bridgeview Lookout Tower in Nipigon. The 12 metre (40 foot) tall structure located off the Trans-Canada Highway offers scenic views of Lake Helen, the Nipigon River and the Nipigon River Bridge.
Terry Fox National Historic Monument
Approximately 100 km (62 miles) from Nipigon
Our last stop of the day was at the Terry Fox National Historic Monument Lookout located on the outskirts of Thunder Bay. This scenic spot offers a breathtaking view of Lake Superior and the Sleeping Giant rock formation and also features a bronze statue of Canadian hero Terry Fox created by sculptor Manfred Pervich.
After running the equivalent of a marathon a day to raise money for cancer research, Terry’s cross-Canada Marathon of Hope in 1980 ended on day 143 near Thunder Bay when his cancer spread to his lungs. He died the following year at the age of 22 but his legacy lives on with annual Terry Fox Runs that have raised over $1 billion for cancer research.
While visiting St. John’s, Newfoundland, we paid tribute at the Mile Zero Memorial site where Terry dipped his artificial leg in the Atlantic Ocean at the start of the Marathon of Hope so it was especially poignant to visit this monument as well.
There’s also a Visitor Centre located here with washrooms, free wifi and an outdoor picnic area. The Visitor Centre is open year-round and is open 8 am – 8 pm during the summer but hours vary at other times of the year. The Terry Fox Monument is outdoors so can be visited at any time.
We stayed one night at the Delta Hotels Thunder Bay located on the northwestern shore of Lake Superior in a King Bed room which we were able to pay for with Marriott Bonvoy points. We enjoyed dinner on the patio at the hotel followed by a lovely stroll around the waterfront trail.
Delta Hotels Thunder Bay has a lovely location on the waterfront in Thunder Bay at 2240 Sleeping Giant Parkway. Rooms are modern and spacious with free wifi and the on-site restaurant Anchor & Ore boasts floor to ceiling windows and an incredible view of Lake Superior. There’s also a cafe that serves Starbucks coffee, pastries and snacks. Pet-friendly rooms are available. Check current rates and reviews on Booking.com or Expedia.
Day 3: Thunder Bay to Winnipeg
Approximate Distance: 700 kilometres (435 miles)
This felt like the longest day although the driving distance and time was similar to the first two days. Fortunately we would be spending two nights in Winnipeg so had a bit of a break from driving and time for some sightseeing.
Kakabeka Falls
Approximately 30 km (18 miles) from Thunder Bay on Highway 11/17
Our first stop of the day was at Kakabeka Falls Provincial Park which is just a short drive from Thunder Bay. At 40 feet high, Kakabeka Falls is the second highest waterfall in Ontario and is nicknamed “Niagara of the North”. The falls is open for year-round viewing.
There’s a wooden boardwalk (with some stairs) that wraps around the upper part of the falls so you can see it from many angles. There’s also a pedestrian bridge across the top of the falls so you can cross to the opposite side for another viewpoint. We spent less than an hour here before getting back on the road, however, there are also a number of hiking trails to enjoy if you have more time.
We purchased the least expensive option for visiting which was a day use parking permit for two hours which cost $7.50. Fees vary based on time of year and the type of permit you are purchasing (annual pass, seasonal pass, day permits for 2 hours, 4 hours or all day).
Ignace Tourist Information Centre
Approximately 215 kilometres (133 miles) from Kakabeka Falls
We had been in the car for a while so stopped briefly in Ignace to stretch our legs at the Tourist Information Centre where there are bathrooms and a playground which is handy for anyone travelling with kids.
Max the Moose, Dryden
Approximately 107 km (66 miles) from Ignace
Our next quick stop was in the town of Dryden to see their road side attraction Max the Moose. Max is an 18 foot tall popular photo op located at the Dryden Visitor Information just off the Trans-Canada Highway (Highway 17). There are public bathrooms and a small gift shop here as well.
Husky the Muskie, Kenora
Approximately 136 km (85 miles) from Dryden
The city of Kenora is a bigger community (population around 15,000) than most of the others we have been passing through and the highway bypasses the downtown area but we decided to take 17B to the business district to see Husky the Muskie.
The 40 foot tall sculpture located on the shores of Lake of the Woods on the outskirts of downtown Kenora is another well-known roadside attraction that was installed when the newly-built Trans-Canada Highway made it easier for people to cross the country by car. The area is known for its sport fishing so a “muskie” was the natural choice.
To access the sculpture, park across the street at McLeod Park and take the underpass.
Centre of Canada Park
Approximately 180 km (111 miles) from Kenora
There was no ‘Welcome to Manitoba’ sign on the highway as we entered the province from Ontario (apparently due to ongoing construction) so we stopped a little farther along at Centre of Canada Park which marks the east-west longitudinal centre of Canada. The park which is about 30 minutes from Winnipeg has a large sign for a photo-op, a couple of large red chairs and a cute Little Free Library.
And we made it to Winnipeg with the longest driving days of the trip behind us! We stayed two nights at The Fort Garry Hotel in a spacious Junior Suite which had a king bed and a seating area as well as a small fridge, a large flat-screen tv and desk, plush bathrobes, a Nespresso machine and lovely L’Occitane toiletries. The bathroom was on the small side with a pedestal sink and bath/tub combo but was quite nice. The location is ideal as we were able to walk to everything that we wanted to see in Winnipeg – even during a heat wave!
The Fort Garry Hotel, Spa and Conference Centre as one of Canada’s historic railway hotels (built in 1913 by the Grand Trunk Pacific Railway) is an iconic landmark in downtown Winnipeg blending historic charm with modern elegance. There are multiple dining options including the stunning Oval Room Brasserie and the Sunset Terrace which is open during summer months. Check current rates and reviews on Booking.com or Expedia.
Day 4: Day in Winnipeg
This was my second time in the city as I had previously visited on a mother-daughter getaway to Winnipeg with my younger daughter a number of years ago and I was looking forward to exploring with my husband. Winnipeg is known for its long, cold winters but both times that I have visited it has been very hot weather in the mid 30s Celsius – I seem to bring the heat waves with me!
With one full day to explore the city, we started our morning with a walk to Starbucks for coffee. Near our hotel there was a very cool wall mural commemorating the history of the labour movement in Winnipeg including the Winnipeg General Strike of 1919 which was the largest in Canadian history. While we were out we also went by the iconic intersection of Portage and Main known as “the crossroads of Canada”.
Winnipeg Sign and the Esplanade Riel
The main thing on our agenda for the day was visiting the Canadian Museum for Human Rights which we walked to from our hotel. We stopped outside the museum to take photos of the Winnipeg sign as well as the Esplanade Riel. The Esplanade Riel is a cable-stayed pedestrian footbridge named after Louis Riel which spans the Red River connecting downtown Winnipeg with St. Boniface.
The Canadian Museum for Human Rights
I have been fortunate to visit the Canadian Museum for Human Rights twice and it is one of the best museums that I have visited anywhere in the world. Opened in 2014, it is the first national museum in Canada located outside the National Capital Region and the world’s first museum dedicated to human rights. The striking architectural design by Antoine Predock is also an important part of the visitor experience.
The museum has 10 permanent galleries that use multimedia technology to connect visitors to stories about human rights as well as thoughtful exhibits that are on display on a temporary basis. The core galleries are: What are Human Rights?; Indigenous Perspectives; Canadian Journeys; Protecting Rights in Canada; Examining the Holocaust; Turning Points for Humanity; Breaking the Silence; Actions Count, Rights Today and Inspiring Change. The exhibitions that were on display when we visited included Love in a Dangerous Time: Canada’s LGBT Purge and Palestine Uprooted: Nakba Past and Present.
We spent just over 3 hours at the museum. There is so much to see and information to absorb that you could easily spend an entire day but I find that much more than three hours in a museum is too exhausting mentally and physically.
85 Israel Asper Way. Regular hours 10 am – 5 pm. Closed Mondays.
The Forks National Historic Site and the Forks Market
When we were finished at the museum, we walked toward the Forks National Historic Site located at the forks of the Red and Assiniboine rivers which had been a meeting place for Indigenous peoples for over 6,000 years. There are red Parks Canada chairs here, a playground and waterpark and a lovely promenade along the river.
We also browsed The Forks Market and enjoyed a treat at Jenna Rae Cakes (a lovely shop that sells delicious cupcakes and macarons) – we had earned it after all the steps we put in over the course of the day! The Forks Market was created by joining two brick stables in the abandoned railyard and was opened in 1989. Today over 4 million visitors come to the Forks each year for the many dining and shopping options.
1 Forks Market Road. Market Building is open daily from 7 am – 10 pm.
Manitoba Legislative Building
We enjoyed a lovely dinner on the patio of the Capital Grill & Bar restaurant across the street from the hotel (275 Broadway) and a post-dinner walk to see the Manitoba Legislative Building (450 Broadway). Unfortunately, tours were available only during the day so we had to be satisfied with taking photos of the exterior of the building.
Day 5: Winnipeg to Regina
Approximate Distance: 573 kilometres (356 miles)
After enjoying a delicious breakfast in the lovely Oval Room at The Fort Garry Hotel, we were back on the road heading to Saskatchewan. We didn’t make as many stops on this driving day – we just wanted to get to Regina – but enjoyed the drive. Driving this stretch, I couldn’t help thinking that the prairies might be flat but are beautiful in their own way – I definitely was not bored at all!
Saskatchewan Border
Approximately 330 km (205 miles) from Winnipeg.
We did stop at the Welcome to Saskatchewan Land of Living Skies sign at the border and the winds had picked up considerably when we got out of the car. We didn’t know it yet but this was the leading edge of some bad weather that we were going to experience for a few days. This was a big moment for me because prior to this trip I had visited 9/10 Canadian provinces – stepping foot in Saskatchewan was number 10!
Esterhazy, Saskatchwan
Nobody else crossing Canada would do this but we made a short detour to visit Esterhazy, Saskatchewan. My husband spent several years early in his legal career commuting back and forth from Toronto to Esterhazy working on a lawsuit related to the flooding of a potash mine and it was such a big part of his life that we had to detour to see the town one more time. It did mean driving through the Qu’Appelle Valley which was quite beautiful and we would have missed it otherwise.
Arrival in Regina
We arrived in Regina late afternoon for a two night stay at The Hotel Saskatchewan and were delighted to learn that we had been upgraded from the King Bed/Sofabed room that we had booked to the very spacious Hansen Suite. We had loads of floor space with a separate seating area, a walk-in closet and a Keurig coffee maker. It was an accessible room so the bathroom had an open shower by the toilet which seemed odd at first but we adjusted and the vanity had just one sink with Pharmacopia toiletries.
We had a quick dinner at Circa 27 in the hotel lobby and then enjoyed a short walk around Victoria Park which was across the street from the hotel before calling it a night.
Originally built by the Canadian Pacific Railway in 1927, The Hotel Saskatchewan in Regina is one of Canada’s historic railway hotels and is now part of Marriott’s Autograph Collection. The upscale hotel is conveniently located at 2125 Victoria Avenue in downtown Regina and features more than 200 individually decorated rooms and suites, Circa 27 Lounge and the Main Dining Room and a day spa. Check current rates and reviews at Booking.com or Expedia.
Day 6: Sightseeing in Regina
We started off our morning with a walk to Starbucks a few blocks away and saw some of the downtown architecture including the Beaux-Arts style Prince Edward Building – a designated heritage building which was originally a post office but for many decades now has been the home of the Globe Theatre (Canada’s only permanent, professional theatre-in-the-round).
RCMP Heritage Centre
The RCMP Heritage Centre is a law enforcement museum in Regina with interesting and informative displays about the history of the RCMP and policing in Canada. The museum, located on the grounds of the RCMP Academy where every Mountie has trained since 1885, has six permanent exhibits and a driving simulator as well as visiting exhibitions. It was quite interesting to see the rare artifacts on display and gain a better understanding of how the history of the Royal Canadian Mounted Police is woven into the history of the country.
5907 Dewdney Avenue, Regina. Open Monday to Sunday 11 am – 5pm and summer hours from the May long weekend through Labour Day 10 am – 5 pm.
Saskatchewan Legislative Building and Wascana Centre
Next on our agenda was the Wascana Centre urban park to see the Saskatchewan Legislative Building (2405 Legislative Drive) and enjoy a walk along the lakefront. We were early in the season so the Queen Elizabeth Gardens weren’t in bloom yet but I’m sure they are spectacular when they are.
Established in 1962, Wascana Centre is a beautifully landscaped urban park built around Wascana Lake in the heart of Regina. The park has several kilometres of paved pathways and natural paths making it a lovely place for a stroll. The weather was a bit threatening but we enjoyed a 45 minute walk alongside the lake where we also saw the Bitter Memories of Childhood memorial of the Holodomor Famine which we had seen a replica of when visiting the Canadian Museum for Human Rights in Winnipeg.
There are also several attractions located within the boundaries of the park including the Royal Saskatchewan Museum, the Saskatchewan Science Centre and Mackenzie Art Gallery. I would have enjoyed visiting them all but we only had time for one and chose the Royal Saskatchewan Museum.
We parked in the free visitor parking by the legislature and then moved to one of the visitor lots for the Royal Saskatchewan Museum which were also free.
The Royal Saskatchwan Museum
The Royal Saskatchewan Museum, located in Wascana Centre park, is a natural history museum best known as the home to Scotty, the world’s largest Tyrannosaurus Rex. The galleries include T. Rex, Life Sciences, Earth Sciences, Indigenous and Home: Life in the Anthropocene. It’s not a very big museum but the exhibits are very well done and we enjoyed our visit of about an hour.
2445 Albert St., Regina. Open 9:30 am – 5:00 pm daily. Admission by donation ($5 per person suggested).
We were tired at the end of a long day so ordered room service and called it a night so we could get an early start the following morning.
Day 7: Regina to Drumheller
Approximate Distance: 665 kilometres (415 miles)
Until this point we had been driving on the TransCanada Highway but we took a detour on day 7 to Drumheller to visit the Badlands and then on to the Rocky Mountains the following day.
Moose Jaw
Approximately 70 km (43 miles) from Regina.
Not so many stops on our day 7 drive but we did stop to see Mac the Moose on the eastbound side of the Trans Canada (Highway 1) at the Moose Jaw Visitor Centre. Constructed by Saskatoon artist Don Foulds, 32 foot tall Mac has been luring visitors off the highway since 1984 and is one of the most photographed roadside attractions in Canada.
Alberta Border
We also stopped at the Welcome to Alberta sign at the border and by this time the weather had shifted to cold, wet and very windy – weather that would stay with us for the next couple of days.
Drumheller and the Badlands
We arrived in Drumheller where we were staying one night at Ramada by Wyndham in a suite with a separate bedroom, king bed and two televisions. We had initially planned to stay here two nights but decided a couple of weeks before our trip to head to the mountains on the second day instead so we would have more time there. Given the weather we experienced in Drumheller, it turned out to be a good decision.
After a casual dinner at Boston Pizza located next door, we headed out in the rain for a drive.
Ramada by Wyndham Drumheller Hotel & Suites is a 3 star family-friendly hotel located at 680 2nd St. Southeast about a 5 minute drive from the World’s Largest Dinosaur. The hotel features an indoor pool with a waterslide, a hot tub, free hot breakfast, and rooms equipped with free Wi-Fi, mini-fridges, microwaves and coffee makers. Check current rates and reviews on Booking.com or Expedia.
Given the miserable weather, we decided that our best option was driving to see the hoodoos. It was only a few degrees above freezing, rainy and extremely windy but you can’t tell that from the photos!
Found throughout the Badlands, hoodoos are tall thin spires or columns of rock that have been formed from erosion over millions of years. One of the easiest and most picturesque places to see them is just a short drive from Drumheller at the Willow Creek Hoodoos site east of Drumheller on Highway 10 where there is a metal structure with stairs allowing visitors to walk around and view from various angles.
Located 16 km (10 miles) east of Drumheller on Highway 10 (about a 15 minute drive).
The weather forecast for the next day was more of the same so we decided to drive around the Drumheller area and see as much as we could that evening. Next stop was the Star Mine suspension bridge also located just a few kilometres from Drumheller. The 117 metre long pedestrian suspension bridge across the Red Deer River was constructed for coal miners in 1931 but is now maintained by the Alberta government to commemorate the region’s mining history.
I have a bit of a fear of heights so don’t love suspension bridges at the best of times but given how windy it was this evening, there was no way that I was walking on a swaying bridge!
Located on Mabbot Road, Rosedale, Alberta. Paid parking seasonally.
Our next stop was at Horseshoe Canyon to take a few photos of the landscape from the viewing platforms. Named for its horseshoe shape, this is a popular hiking spot as there is a gently sloping trail to the canyon floor that is considered a moderate hike. Each arm of the canyon is approximately 5km. We would have loved to hike at least a portion of the trail but not in the weather we were experiencing!
Highway 9, just 17 km (11 mi) west of Drumheller.
By this time we were circling back to Drumheller and stopped at the Welcome to Drumheller sign for the photo op.
And our final stop of the evening was to get a photo of the World’s Largest Dinosaur at the Tourism Information Centre in Drumheller. Known as Tyra, this 25-meter (86-foot) tall T-Rex made from fibreglass and steel first opened in 2000. Visitors can climb 106 stairs to check out the view from the mouth of the dinosaur.
60 Riverside Drive West. Open Monday to Sunday 9 am – 9 pm for stair access. Admission is $5.
Day 8: Drumheller to Canmore
Approximate Distance: 230 kilometres (140 miles) via Highway 9 and the Trans-Canada.
Another rainy, cold and windy day so we decided the best plan would be to spend part of the day indoors at the Royal Tyrrell Museum – but first Starbucks in Drumheller which has embraced the town’s dinosaur theme!
Starbucks is located in the Freson Bros. Fresh Market at 101 6 Ave. SE.
Royal Tyrrell Museum
The Royal Tyrrell Museum is Canada’s only museum dedicated exclusively to the study of ancient life and features one of the world’s largest display of dinosaurs. Major permanent galleries include Palaeozoic, Triassic Giant, Cenozoic and my favourites Cretaceous Alberta and Dinosaur Hall. We spent about 1.5 hours browsing the exhibits and thought this museum was very well done – both educational and entertaining for all ages. If there’s a dinosaur-loving member of your family then you need to take them to the Royal Tyrrell!
There’s a self-guided interpretive path (1.4 km loop trail) from the museum that explores the surrounding badlands of Midland Provincial Park which is free and takes about an hour to complete. Unfortunately, we had to give it a miss due to the pouring rain. There are also slightly longer 90 minute guided hikes of the badlands available for ages 16+ which cost $18 per person.
Located 6 km (4 mi) northwest of Drumheller on Highway 838. Summer hours: open 7 days a week 9 am – 9pm. September 1 – mid-May: open 10 am – 5 pm and closed on Mondays.
Dinosaur Trail Loop
After our museum visit, we continued our drive along the Dinosaur Trail. It was still pouring rain so the visibility wasn’t great and we only made a couple of stops before turning back. I was a bit disappointed that the weather curtailed our experience somewhat in Drumheller but we still managed to hit the highlights.
The Dinosaur Trail is a scenic 48 km (30 mile) loop drive beginning in Drumheller and winding through the Badlands along the Red Deer River as far as the Bleriot Ferry river crossing before looping back on the other side.
The Little Church
The most whimsical stop on the Dinosaur Trail is Drumheller’s Little Church which seats only six people at a time. The church, built by a local contractor in 1958, is open to the public and there is no charge to enter.
Located on Murray Hill Road off Highway 838 approximately 7.5 km from Drumheller and just a short distance from the Royal Tyrrell Museum.
Horsethief Canyon
Located 16 km (10 miles) northwest of Drumheller on the east bank of the Red Deer River, Horse Thief Canyon Lookout offers spectacular views of the landscape. Interestingly, the canyon got its name because it was once considered an ideal place for thieves to hide stolen horses.
We admired the scenic view and quickly snapped some photos before getting back in the car. Public parking is free on site. When I was researching our trip, I found quite a few articles about hiking Horsethief Canyon, however, both Travel Alberta and Travel Drumheller note that hiking is not permitted down to the floor of the canyon as it is private property.
Canmore
The drive to Canmore was a bit tense with the weather conditions but, fortunately, the rain had let up a bit by the time we arrived late afternoon and we enjoyed a walk in downtown Canmore including a shop at Café Books and dinner at The Grizzly Paw Pub.
We stayed one night at Lamphouse by Basecamp in a King Bed room with a spectacular view of the mountains. This is motel style accommodations located right in the heart of downtown Canmore by the river. The room was modern and stylish and there is an outdoor hot tub available for guests but not really any other amenities to speak of.
There were flood warnings in many areas of Alberta due to several days of heavy rain and snow in the mountains over the past couple of days and I was a bit anxious when I saw that our motel was right beside the river in Canmore. The water level was quite high but, fortunately, did not rise over the banks.
Lamphouse by Basecamp in Canmore is located in the heart of downtown Canmore on 8 Street. Rooms in the modern boutique-style motel are laid-back and comfortable and feature locally-made bath products and free wifi. Some rooms are pet-friendly. One parking spot is included. Check current rates and reviews on Booking.com or Expedia.
Day 9: Canmore to Jasper
Approximate Distance: 318 kilometres (197 miles)
We started the morning with a walk to Starbucks in Canmore to get coffee to start the day before our drive to Jasper.
Banff
We have stayed in Banff twice on previous visits but decided to just stop for a quick walk around to stretch our legs. We found (expensive) parking and walked through downtown and as far as Cascade Gardens. Flood warnings to stay away from Bow River were in effect so we didn’t do much else. It was still cold and wet but thankfully the rain was starting to let up.
Read Fairmont Banff Springs: A Luxury Stay Worth the Splurge
We arrived in Lake Louise approximately 11am and were able to get (very expensive) parking at the lake instead of taking a shuttle. This was early June so not yet as busy as the area gets. We decided it was worth the extra cost in order to save time as we knew it was going to take the better part of the day to get to Jasper.
We walked around and took a lot of photos as the colour of the lake was just incredible. The weather was also much clearer than when we stayed here three years earlier (late June) and had a big snowstorm that necessitated staying an extra night. We walked the path that goes around the lakeshore and then headed for the Icefields Parkway.
Visiting beautiful Moraine Lake is a must in this area – we were there on our last trip to the Banff National Park so skipped it this time.
Icefields Parkway
On our previous trip three years earlier, we drove the Icefields Parkway both directions spending most of a day travelling north toward Jasper and back the next day (after an unforgettable night at Glacier View Lodge). On that trip we had to cancel our planned stay at Jasper Park Lodge because a snowstorm closed the highway. Since this was our third time on the Icefields Parkway and we were anxious to get to Jasper, we made fewer stops than we otherwise would have.
Read Driving the Scenic Icefields Parkway: Lake Louise to Jasper
Bow Lake – Our first quick stop was at Bow Lake where a lovely young woman offered to take our photo and like a true Gen Z took at least 20! 🙂 The water was quite blue the last time we were here but the rain we had experienced in recent days was snow in the mountains so it was snow-capped and there was still ice on the lake.
Peyto Lake – Peyto Lake is a cautionary tale as I failed to learn a lesson from our previous visit here when we trudged up a snowy hill without proper footwear. Well this time was worse because there was more snow and I was wearing Keen sandals! I can’t stress how important it is to have proper clothes and footwear in the mountains because it can clearly snow any time of the year. The views are definitely worth it though!
Athabasca Glacier – On our previous trip, we spent a night here at Glacier View Lodge which was incredible. On this trip we only made a quick stop to snap a photo of the glacier, purchase a snack and use the restrooms at the Visitor Centre.
Read An Unforgettable Stay at Glacier View Lodge
Unlike our previous experience, we saw wildlife several times on this trip – bears a couple of times, elk, and these mountain goats. I took this photo from the moving car with the window down as you’re not supposed to stop because it bothers wildlife and snarls traffic.
We stayed 2 nights at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge where we had booked a Junior Suite with Fireplace and were upgraded to a stunning Luxury Lakefront 1 Bedroom Suite. The best upgrade ever! Our accommodations were incredible with a separate bedroom, large living area with wood burning fireplace and a balcony with lake views. We also had the assistance of a Personal Concierge for the duration of our stay. This resort is a splurge but has been on my bucket list of hotels in Canada for a long time so it was worth it!
It was shortly after 5 pm when we checked in to Jasper Park Lodge so we walked around and explored a bit and ate dinner at the resort’s Italian restaurant Orso Trattoria before retiring to our suite for the evening.
Opened more than 100 years ago by Canadian National Railyways, Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge is a 700-acre luxury year-round resort located on the shores of Lac Beauvert in the stunning Rocky Mountains. The iconic mountain lodge has rooms, suites and cabins and a range of activities for everyone including an award-winning golf course, a full-service spa and health club and more. Pet-friendly. Self-parking is free. Check reviews and current rates at Booking.com or Expedia.
Day 10: Day in Jasper
We started our morning with a leisurely walk by the lake before grabbing a quick breakfast at Embark Outpost & Provisions which is the café located on the lower level at the Main Lodge.
Maligne Lake Cruise
Our main activity for the day was the cruise of Maligne Lake that we had missed out on three years earlier. The boats operate late May until early October (generally Canadian Thanksgiving is the closing weekend) and it’s a good idea to pre-purchase tickets from Banff Jasper Collection to be sure to have a seat as they do sell out particularly during the busiest weeks of the season. It’s recommended that you allow 90 minutes for the drive from Jasper and plan to arrive 1 hour prior to your cruise.
We left Jasper Park Lodge late morning and made just one stop at Medicine Lake along the way so we arrived in Maligne Lake with plenty of time to spare and wander around. There are several hiking trails of varying lengths and difficulty, canoes, kayaks and pedal boats available for rent at Maligne Lake Boat House, dining at Lake House Café, Waffle Hut or the Maligne Lake Chalet which is a National Historic Site and a gift shop. You could spend the day if you wanted!
The Classic Maligne Lake Cruise to Spirit Island is an approximately 1.5 hour guided tour across on the beautiful blue-green glacier-fed waters of Maligne Lake with a stop of about 15-20 minute at Spirit Island. Walking on Spirit Island is not permitted because of its spiritual significance to the Indigenous Peoples of the region so there’s a viewing platform a short walk from the dock. Maligne Lake was so incredibly beautiful and we had an absolutely perfect day weather-wise – this was an experience that I will never forget!
Back at Jasper Park Lodge, we enjoyed dinner at Elderwood for the restaurant’s post-renovation opening night. We initially sat on the terrace which has a lovely view of the lake but it started raining so quickly moved inside.
Later that evening, we took part in the Jasper Planetarium‘s Planetarium and Telescope experience which included a presentation in a domed theatre with expert guides as well as stargazing with the largest telescopes in the Canadian Rockies. Jasper has been designated as a Dark Sky Preserve since 2011 due to its limited light pollution that creates ideal conditions for dark sky viewing.
The guides were very knowledgeable but I’m not very science-y so much of the information was over my head. I still enjoyed the experience and we did see some interesting stars and constellations even though conditions weren’t ideal due to some cloud cover.
Day 11: Jasper to Kamloops
Approximate Distance: 450 kilometres (280 miles)
We enjoyed a delicious breakfast at Orso Trattoria before saying goodbye to Jasper Park Lodge and hitting the road to British Columbia.
We took the Yellowhead Highway route and stopped at the Welcome to British Columbia sign as we arrived in the fifth province of this road trip. There’s a roadside pull-out and parking here where you will find the Welcome sign as well as the entrance to Mount Robson Provincial Park and also historical information about the Yellowhead Pass National Historic Site.
Our next stop was at the Mount Robson Visitor Centre which is approximately 94 kilometres (58 miles) from Jasper. I had read that there were excellent views of Mount Robson here but the cloud cover was quite low on the day we visited.
We also made a quick stop at the Wells Gray Park Information Centre before arriving in Kamloops where we were staying at the Delta Kamloops. We were also able to use Marriott Bonvoy points for our stay here in a King Bed room. We enjoyed dinner at the hotel restaurant and checked out the rooftop pool before calling it a night.
The Delta Hotels by Marriott Kamloops is located in downtown Kamloops at 540 Victoria Street and has an on-site restaurant, fitness centre and outdoor pool. Pet-friendly. Check current rates and reviews on Booking.com or Expedia.
Day 12: Kamloops to Vancouver
Approximate Distance: 357 kilometres (221 miles)
On the final day of our road trip, we made only a couple of rest stops before we dropped off our rental car at Enterprise in Vancouver at the end of our once-in-a-lifetime road trip and checked into The Westin Bayshore for 3 nights for our Vancouver weekend getaway. Twelve days on the road exploring our beautiful country from Toronto to Vancouver – truly unforgettable!
Related Reading
Gaspé Road Trip: A 6 Day Tour of the Gaspé Region
Banff to Jasper Road Trip: A 6 Day Tour of the Canadian Rockies
A Scenic Road Trip from Québec City to the Charlevoix Region
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